I
love asparagus with Hollandaise and really can't get it often enough.
A little out of style just now it has bee removed from most restaurant
menus because of all the health food freaks (yes I hate them if
I should give up Hollandaise). Since the first time I had this I
have been hooked. If a host serves this to me it can only mean one
thing, they still care abut the classics.
Living
up here in the north we do get some pretty nasty asparagus imported
from all over the world. To add insult to injury they really like
to charge for it as well. I don't mind paying for it but only if
its good and in season. I can live without it most of the year to
really enjoy it when it's time.
The
season for asparagus in Europe is late May when you can find fine
pencil thin asparagus to mid July when they are thicker and 4 or
5 spears are enough for a portion. The season for white asparagus
is the same.
I
think that the best come from England and France but we have when
the time is right very good asparagus here as well from about the
second week in June. Extremely early asparagus (early March) come
from Spain and are grown in greenhouses. We do have Swedish greenhouse
grown asparagus very early as well and the ones for sale have looked
as if they were harvested in late july. That can't be right but
they are there.
No
- I think that asparagus are one of the really beautiful things
in life and I am perfectly willing to live without them out of season
and try and eat them almost everyday when they are.
Look
for green unblemished spears and tips. The bottoms of them should
not be all dried out, wrinkled and looking like they have been sitting
around since last summer. The bottoms should still be moist and
fresh looking. Much has to do with it's handling and storage during
transit and at the market where you purchase it.
Choose
spears of the same thickness so that they will cook evenly. Avoid
asparagus in pre made bundles as there are always several that have
lost their tips or are completely different sizes. The growers and
market do this to even out their losses.
I always peel my asparagus if they are any thicker then 1 cm. (3/4
of an inch). I don't bother with all this silly breaking off the
bottom 1/3 and cheffy crap. I peel them and get as much of the spear
as I can to eat. I can be rather greedy when it comes to asparagus.
I trim off the really course bottoms after I bundle them up for
cooking to get rid of them and to even up all the spears.
The
cooking method above is the one I like best. You can of course steam
them but if they are not the freshest steaming seems to accentuate
that fact. The cooking time is an approximation, you need to test
them with the tip of a small knife every couple of minutes to be
sure. Very thin spears will of course cook faster then late season
thick spears.
The
most important part though is that they should be just cooked (individual
tastes constitutes "cooked"). I like them firm but not
"al dente", they should not crunch when you eat them.
I hate them overcooked, limp and soggy. You should be able to hold
one in your hand buy the bottom and it should want to stand almost
straight up.
The
second most important thing and this is aesthetic is the ice water.
You need to do this to set the color so when you present them they
have the most beautiful fresh color possible. Most green vegetables
benefit from this process.
There
are lots of good ways of eating asparagus, the cooking method is
the same. I list some of them here.
Hot:
Sauce Maltaise
Sauce
Mousseline also known as Sauce Chantilly which is Hollandaise with
1/3 the amount whipped cream folded into the warm Hollandaise.
Cold:
Vinaigrette or Fine Herb Vinaigrette
Sauce Vinaigrette a la Creme (vinaigrette with heavy cream and fine herbs or try only using dill.
Sauce Moutarde (mustard sauce with fine herbs),
Vinaigrette with chopped basil.
Try a thin mayonnaise with fine herbs.
For a 120 ml. (half a cup) of vinaigrette or mayonaise use 2 msk
(2tbls.) of the following finely chopped.
Fine herbs constitute a combination of 2 or more of the following.
Finely chopped tarragon, parsely, chervil, dill. |